Kathmandu in the Rain: Discovering Ancient Beauty, Spiritual Resilience, and Hidden Wonders

See Kathmandu through the eyes of a flood-affected tourist.

This was not the vacation I had envisioned. My long-awaited expedition along the Annapurna Circuit was abruptly cancelled due to enormous rainfall and floods, the heaviest since 1970. I was unable to leave Kathmandu and had no choice but to wait out the deluge, giving me two extra days to enjoy in the city. While the streets were flooded and travel plans were disrupted, Kathmandu transformed into an unexpected refuge. It was a place where old history and spirituality shone through the mist and rain.

In the midst of the rain, Pashupatinath Temple demonstrates the power of spiritual fortitude.

Because there was no indication that the rain would stop, I decided to go to the Pashupatinath Temple for my first visit. With the intensity of the storm, the Bagmati River, which had become swollen, rushed by the temple complex, its waters churning with the force of the storm. On the other hand, despite all of this mayhem, there was a sense of calm in the air of the sacred place. The temple, which was devoted to Lord Shiva, stood tall and unshaken, giving the impression that it was providing protection against the onslaught of nature.

I was walking through the wet stone pathways when I saw monks and devotees carrying on with their rituals despite the fact that they were drenched for a long time. They appeared to have their faith strengthened by the rain. While the sound of temple bells rang out, the sound of the bells was both eerie and comforting in contrast to the sound of the rain falling. Incense smoke curled upward, blending with the dampness in the air when it was released. It was striking to see the contrast between the unrelenting storm and the silence that was present through the prayers.

At the ghats, I observed the ceremonies that were being performed for the deceased. Even though the rains were lashing the riverbanks, life and death continued to move forward in a cycle that would never end. My experience at Pashupatinath, with its ageless spirituality, brought to mind the concept of resiliency, which is the unwavering conviction that certain things are beyond the control of nature.

The Buddha Stupa, a Place of Peace in the Midst of the Upheaval

I began my journey to Boudhanath Stupa, also known as Buddha Stupa, the following day, with the expectation that the weather would improve. Even though it did not, the rain, in some strange way, somehow contributed to the serene atmosphere that surrounded this enormous stupa. The golden eyes of the Buddha gazed out, watching over the city that was drenched in rain. The white dome, which was enormous and majestic, stood out against the grey sky.

In the rain, walking around the stupa was a meditative experience. During the time that pilgrims and tourists alike were making their way around the structure, whispering mantras or simply taking in the tranquilly, each raindrop appeared to be a prayer that was falling from the heavens. In contrast to the gloom, prayer flags flew in the heavy wind, their vibrant colours standing out against the background. Although Kathmandu had been soaked and battered by the storm, it appeared as though the city was still clinging to hope and peace.

Known as “A Jewel in the Rain,” Patan Palace and Square also

When I went to Patan Palace and Durbar Square, however, it was the most memorable part of my journey through Kathmandu, which was frequently soaked by rain. I had always been fascinated by architecture, and as the rains continued, Patan revealed itself in a manner that was completely unexpected to me. In spite of the rain, the square, which is a cultural and historical treasure, shone brightly. They appeared to have been freshly polished, as if the rain had washed away years of dust to reveal their true beauty. The buildings were made of red brick and terracotta, and they were mixed with wooden structures that were hundreds of years old.

During the monsoon, the Patan Palace, which featured intricate carvings, wooden sculptures, and courtyards, gave off the impression of being alive. As I made my way through the grounds of the palace, I couldn’t help but captivated by the sheer artistry of the location. Under the weight of the storm, the wooden carvings that adorned the palace appeared to breathe. These carvings depicted deities, animals, and scenes from mythology. The rain soaked into the bricks, which caused them to become darker.

In Mul Chowk, the main courtyard of the palace, I spent a considerable amount of time admiring the wooden columns that supported the structure. Each of these columns was carved with painstaking attention to detail. It seemed as though I had travelled back in time as the rain, which was falling gently onto the stone courtyard below, dripped down from the eaves of the building. The environment was so tranquil, so far removed from the mayhem that was occurring outside, that I almost forgot about the floodwaters that were rising across the city boundaries.

Another astounding structure was Sundari Chowk, which featured a stone bath and walls that were intricately carved. As the rain fell, the sculptures in this area appeared to come to life, as they were wet and glistening. Even centuries after they had been carved, the details, such as each fold in a robe and each muscle in a figure, were so sharp that they were still recognisable. I stood for a considerable amount of time at the Golden Window, admiring the intricate latticework that framed the square that was drenched in rain like a painting.

Patan’s art and architecture were brought out to their full potential by the rain, which I noticed everywhere I looked. The Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, also known as the Golden Temple, was exceptional in its ability to captivate visitors with its golden statues and bronze sculptures that shone brightly in the rain. The temple had an otherworldly atmosphere, as if the rain itself was a blessing from the gods, but the wet air, which was filled with the scent of rain and incense, gave way to this feeling.

The Unexpected Present from Kathmandu

The ancient heart of Kathmandu was what captivated me during those two days of rain, despite the fact that I had travelled to Kathmandu with the intention of hiking and exploring the surrounding mountains. Despite the fact that the floods caused my plans to be derailed, they also provided me with a unique opportunity to view Kathmandu in a different light. The rain, which I had anticipated would be a hindrance, turned out to be a companion, illuminating the essence of the city in ways that I had not anticipated.

As I strolled through Patan’s Durbar Square, observed the gathering of storm clouds over the Pashupatinath Temple, and found peace at the Buddha Stupa, I came to the realisation that Kathmandu is not merely a gateway to the Himalayas; rather, it is a destination in its own right. Even in the face of the unpredictability of nature, the human spirit is able to persevere in this location, which is a place where history, spirituality, and resiliency are intertwined.

The rains may have flooded the streets, but they also washed away the distractions, leaving behind a city that was drenched in beauty, mystery, and grace that has stood the test of time.

© Dr. Pratik P. SURANA

Chief Mentor and Founder,

Quantum Group

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